Tuesday, August 26, 2014

A Rookie Mistake Veteran

It was a beautiful day, with that bright blue sky for which Korea is famous. The sun was shining. The birds were singing. The air was fresh and the children were not. 


With that gorgeous sky above us, the kids and I set off for supper at our second favorite Korean restaurant, Don Valley. It's an underground restaurant with very little ambiance, but they have high chairs with which to imprison the monkey boy. The quality of the food doesn't matter a bit if you are too busy chasing a crazed 3 year old around a restaurant to actually eat it. 

As we waited to cross the street near the restaurant, I noticed this scene. 


The woman sits on this corner a lot. Pretty much every time I pass. She looks clean, but I'm fairly certain she's homeless and I'm positive she suffers from mental illness. Half the time, she is joined on this corner by an equally ill, but also well washed foreigner. 

But this was different. The man sitting with her in the birthday hat was very typically homeless. Dirty, foul smelling, missing teeth and dignity. 

But she had a little spread of food and was feeding him bite after bite with her hands.   She would pop in a bite, then carefully, gently, maternally wipe his mouth. She poured him a cup of makkoli, a milky, sweet rice wine, then handed him the bottle to have him pour her a drink. In Korea, you don't pour your own drink. It's rude. I loved that he took the bottle and proudly poured her drink, with the birthday hat on his head and a toothless grin on his face. 

The scene was just so tender and sweet, I felt privileged to have witnessed it. I discreetly snapped a photo as we walked by. 

Down to our kabli and rice we went. We gorged on our Korean favorites as we shared stories of our day, giggles and belly laughs galore. I paid the bills and we marched up to street level with promises of melon ice cream bars luring the children out merrily. 

When we reached the top of the stairs, we saw that the blue skies had retreated and the monsoons had struck. The world was dark, cold, and wet. Very, very wet. 

We aren't taking about a little rain here. We are talking about those big fat drops that soak you through in seconds. And a lot of them. The streets were already ankle deep. 

And I had made the rookie mistake of not bringing umbrellas. No rain jackets, either.  We were trapped with no way home but through the wet. 

As I stood contemplating this new dilemma, the man with the birthday hat approached. He got into the face of an older lady who shooed him away. That's when he noticed us. 

Gone was his birthday hat and his happy demeanor. He was intoxicated and angry and I was standing alone at the top of a very long flight of stairs with four children. Easy pickings for a pissed drunk with an unpredictable mental illness. 

I kept the kids busy talking of the rain while avoiding eye contact with the man. He got right into Roman's face, but Roman knew well enough to look away and not engage him. This isn't his first ride at the crazy rodeo, after all. 

The man then leaned into me to force our eyes to meet.  I, instead, looked up at the great gray above as it unleashed its weight of water and threw my hands skyward as a sign of love and adoration. 

That was enough for him. He must have thought I was crazier than he. He stepped back, then forward again like he was going to touch Iryna's hair. Before he got a hand close, I cackled loudly. He looked at me again, then horked a big loogie and stomped off. 

And that's when I remembered the emergency ponchos I had in my purse. Just three. But better than nothing. We threw them on and started off toward home. 


By the time we got to the hotel, we learned that those emergency ponchos aren't really better than nothing. They're just about the same as nothing. We were drenched so badly, we had to wring out our clothes. 

Even a monsoon veteran can make a rookie mistake. Next time, we all take umbrellas. And birthday hats. And maybe some makkoli. 











Monday, August 25, 2014

A Bird's Eye Firing

On Saturday night, we were treated to a Korean wedding on the grounds of the hotel in which we are staying.  We had the best seat in the house from nine stories above the action.

The lavish hanbok on the matrons of each family riveted the kids and the adorable little flower girl had Iryna crying that she hasn't had a chance at the role.  The groom was dashing and entertaining; the bride breathtakingly elegant. 



The flowers were beautiful pale shades of ivory and pink, accented with
candelabras and bows. Three 
musicians topped off the romantic atmosphere with their artistry. 

It was splendid. 

Until the wedding coordinator entered the picture. And by that I mean quite literally entered the picture. 

Every. Single. One. 


That's her in the gray suit. She's arranging the bride and groom before they're even allowed to join hands and walk together toward the minister. 


That's her messing with the minister. 


She was up there in the middle of their vows. 


When the bride went to bow to her new inlaws, I thought the old wedding planner might grab the groom for herself. 

But she had better things to do.  Like this.  Watch.



Honestly, one of the most sacred and solemn parts of a Korean wedding is the uniting of two families showcased with honor and respect shown with this ancient Asian custom.  But there's batshit crazy lady getting paid to mess it all up.  


Now, she did stand respectfully behind the parents of the bride while the bridal couple bowed, but she came up from behind right after to fluff the mother's hanbok and adjust the bride's bra. Yes. Her bra. She did this before the couple's exit as well. 


As soon as they were at the arch, she ran down the aisle to shake off any and all rose petals from the bride's dress and trains. 

I almost yelled down, "Leave her the fuck alone, ya old bat!! She's beautiful and you're a prune!"  I didn't, though. Because I have a filter. See that?  A filter. 

She should have been fired on the spot. Totally ruined the whole thing. At least from the ninth floor perspective. 

I sure hope she didn't direct traffic on their honeymoon. Can you even imagine? Eeeeew......









Sunday, August 24, 2014

Aimless Monsoon Wandering



This monsoons hit this past week. The same week that Mike had to work a double night shift. He was gone 7:30pm till 10:30am. That left the kids and I out in the rain. Literally. 


Mike had to sleep. We live in a hotel room. We have four loud children. So every day I gathered the youngin's up and headed out, looking for something to do. 


Hiking Namsan was out. No way was I going to try pulling the wagon up that mountain in this crap.  I don't even like hiking in beautiful weather, completely unencumbered.  Like hell I'm gonna be some amphibious donkey. 


I tried convincing the kids to play outside on the playground, but they kept seeing lightening. I don't believe them. I think they were faking in order to sit in the lobby clashing their clans and mining their crafts. 


If you don't know what I'm talking about, rejoice!!  It's like knowing nothing about smoking crank or ignorance of that 3 Girls, 1 Cup video. You just simply do not even want to know. I promise you. 

So we ate at the Korean lunch buffet. 


Since it was a buffet, it killed a lot of time. Let's just say we got our money's worth. 


And we may or may not be welcomed back. I won't be surprised either way. But the food was outstanding so I tipped well hoping we can go back. We might have to wear disguises. And leave this guy at home. 


Nothing.  But. Trouble. 

Everywhere. Even at the Burger King playground. 


Which we hung at a lot because it was indoors and somewhat contained. That's what you look for when you've got a sleeping husband, one hotel room, monsoons, and a whirling dervish who screams like a band of banshees. Oh, and he steals shoes, too. And throws them. At people. 

So yeah, we may not be welcomed back to Burger King anytime soon, either. Too bad they don't accept tips. 


Iryna really enjoyed breaking the rules, too. No climbing on the outside of the play structure. She doesn't mind rules. They're written for the peasants, anyway. 

There's plenty of other Burger Kings in Korea. This one kind of bites if you base your fast food experience on the diaper changers like I do. 


Who the hell mounts a diaper changer so damn high that the kid is level with mom's boobs?  And I am fairly tall by Korean standards, plus I've got some good height with my sandals. My 4'11" mother would not have been able to even get him on this changer. 

No BK bueno. 

The kids hit the Jamba Juice quite a bit. 


Mama hit her own kind of juice just as much. 


Don't judge. It was a long week. Very long. 

We went to the kids' school orientations. The elementary school is huge. There are more kids in the second grade alone than in their entire school last year. 


There's something like 2000 students. It's crazy. 

Reilly Kate's school is a little more manageable. She seemed to find some friends instantly. 


I'll admit to shedding a few tears, though. I feel like I'm sending my baby out to the wolves. 

Or maybe I'm just reliving my own middle school horror. Shiver. 

We bought some new school shoes. Please note the shoe theif at work. 


I'm almost positive we aren't welcome back to the PX. Shortly after this picture was taken, I put Kelly in the wagon and turned down the shampoo aisle. He stuck his arm out and, in one fell swoop, knocked an entire shelf's worth of shampoo tumbling to the ground. 

I'm really glad shampoo comes in plastic bottles. Let's just say, we are rethinking Kelly's metal sippy cup. Nuff said. For legal reasons. I cannot get into here. 


But look what an angel he is while he's sleeping. Unfortunately, this happened only once this past week. I'd had enough and just camped out for two hours in the lobby. 

The highlight, though, was bowling. Cosmic bowling.


We donned our best neon gear and...



...we glowed as we rolled, baby!!!


Roman kicked some serious ass. 


So did RK. Who knew she had such a wicked hook?

I hope we will be welcomed back despite this guy throwing the balls instead of rolling  them. Loft much?  Why yes!!


He did get the hang of rolling toward the end of the second game. Rolling himself down the lane, that is. Apparently, that's strictly forbidden for safety reasons. The Kellster doesn't give a shit. 


But they gave me a frequent bowler card. Three more games and I get one for free. I think they want us back. Maybe. Or maybe just without the dervish. 

So when Friday came and the week was over, I was done. I had developed a nervous twitch, a mean ass bark, a much worse bite, and the look of a crazed bitch. 

I covered it all with a thick slab of make up, some Spanx, and a pair of killer heals, then forced my sleep deprived husband to take me out into town. 


Suffice it to say, I didn't look this good when I came back. But I felt a whole lot better. 

























Thursday, August 21, 2014

The Time of Her Life

Dan sends me periodic updates on Freyja, complete with photos and videos.

Every evening they take a walk together.  And share a snack.



He's giving her a good life to enjoy in her last few weeks.  Along with her baby, Skadi.  Because you can't have the time of your life without good company.




Ahhh... And, really, would life be worth living without ice cream.  If you said yes, it would, we can no longer be friends.



Because ICE CREAM!!



Happiness through grief.  That's what's on our plates over here.

Sunday, August 17, 2014

Unusual Sights

Today, over lunch at the Navy Club, we were talking to the kids about experiencing a different culture by living it. We said that there may be things that look familiar but upon further inspection are just not quite right. It's what makes living abroad fun and interesting. 

As we were talking, Mike became distracted. 


I followed his gaze and came upon a perfect example to showcase what we were trying to teach the kids. 


Now, you might not think much of a clown sitting on a beam. But this is a nautical themed restaurant. A clown kinda, well, it's not quite right. 

A few minutes later, Kelly started pointing and saying "cow."


Sure enough. A cow. Of sorts. 


And a couple of Christmas wreaths.  Because why not?  It doesn't really detract from the fishing nets and mermaids. In fact, it's fun. 

Sometimes, however, those little not quite right-isms are neither little nor fun. They smack in the face of what we try to teach out kids. 

Like this policy instituted at a different restaurant, owned by the brother of an old friend of ours. 


Ebola and southern BBQ joints. Hmmmm... I see. I wonder how they plan to identify the Africans. I wonder if I should explain how the virus is spread. 

Meh. The expat community is already planning a boycott. Should last till Friday, happy hour. If that long. 

And then there's this rare sight, too. Civilian employees sporting BDU's to play war. 


Mike laments the irony that he wore jeans and tshirts while working in a real war, but gets brand new, government issued uniforms in which to practice. 

He looks pretty good in his uniform, if I do say so myself. Mmmm... rare sight, indeed. 





Friday, August 15, 2014

Freedom Means Not Having To Say You're Sorry

Today is Korean Independence Day. It is the day that the Japanese surrendered to the United States thus freeing the Korean people from 35 years of oppressive, cruel, and demoralizing Japanese rule. 


What the Korean people endured during that time is heartbreaking. They had their language tossed out, their names changed, their culture robbed, their women raped, and their lands and historical treasures pillaged. Many brave Koreans stood up against the Japanese and lost their lives fighting for freedom.


If you don't know much about this part of history, I encourage you to look it up. It's chilling. I think most Americans are well versed on the atrocities of the German Nazis, but know little of the comparable horrors the Japanese committed in the East. 

Also unlike post WWII Europe, forgiveness hasn't yet come to the East as apologies have yet to be offered by the Japanese. It's a bone of contention big enough to choke Clifford the Big Red Dog. 

Plus, there's that pesky Dokdo business. 


Dokdo is basically a rock in the ocean that Japan still today claims rights to based primarily on its colonial take over of Korea.  Tensions continue to be very high. Over a rock. In the ocean. 

But it's a symbolic rock and very important to Korea. Basically, instead of an apology, Japan continues to rub salt in the wound while flashing a big fat "Fuck You."

Alas, like any Independence Day where the people have genuine liberty and economic freedom, the day isn't spent contemplating history and our place in it while mapping out a free and prosperous future for generations to come.  

It's not even spent plotting and planning the take over of a small rock island in the ocean. 


No, no. It's spent eating and DRINKING!! Of course!!


A lot of drinking. In some cases, too much. Way, way too much. 


No shame in that, though. Not here in Korea, anyway. The soju runs clear and cheap and smooth. Well, maybe not that smooth. 

It's goes well with BBQ. And that's got "Independence Day" written all over it.  

Lastly, in celebration of all things Asian, I give you this series of über adorable photos entitled "Three Year Old Uses Chopsticks Better Than You."












You're welcome.